2007 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc

Light yellow. Subdued nose with melon, fresh cream and white blossom. Aromatically challenged. Soft and easy on the palate. Medium bodied with creamy textures. The low acidity verges on flabbiness. Bring this crowd pleaser to a party and grill up some Halibut. Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Boubourlenc.

$14

C

2006 Domane Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Riesling

Brilliant light yellow. Invigorating nose is limey and steely. Lots of white stone dust, zippy tangerine and delicate orange blossom floral notes. Delicious on the palate with more juicy lime flavors. It's bone dry with razor sharp acidity, but not hard. The medium body has a soft textural give like citrus oil. Medium minerally finish. Buy this beauty by the case. Screw cap.

$18

A-

2007 Paco & Lola Rias Baixas Albarino

Pale yellow. Restrained nose with honeysuckle undertones. Fuzzy apricot, honeydew melon and lime zest come through. There is also a salty sea breeze character. The combination is like a margherita on the rocks with salt. Clean and medium bodied on palate. An underlying hint of residual sugar? adds fullness. The acid is zippy and lemony on the finish. Overall, varietally correct with great balance, although lacking aromatic intensity and some finesse on the palate. A good value.

$17

B

A delicious match with Clams and Linguine.

2006 Toulouse Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Light, dull, red, slightly cloudy. Rose, spice, cinnamon with subtle cedar block and tree stump bark. Ripe strawberry fruit on heady nose. Palate is soft and round, but firm. There is a slight medicinal quality on finish that is not unpleasant with menthol cigarette smoke and truffle. This wine is missing major acid and lacks finesse. An enjoyable table wine.

$40

B-

2006 Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir

Light ruby red. Everything about this wine is "nice." Red cherry fruit, hint of toastiness, some earthy undertones. Soft palate with spice. Nice, well made, but uninspiring Pinot at this pricepoint.

$33

C+

2006 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Fume Blanc

Light Yellow. Crunchy nose of gooseberries, bright lemon, lime, cut grass - very Marlborough like, (although more restrained). Mineral water notes. Palate is crisp and refreshing. Almost-ripe, fuzzy peach sweet and sour character on entry. It's very suprising that this Sauvignon is from Napa. No sign of new oak nonsense. Acidity has sweettart quality (added tartaric?), but overall nice balance, although it lacks a sense of place. This is a very well made wine, but very obviously "made."

$39

B-

2007 Pierre Gaillard Condrieu

Golden yellow. Sweet, custardy impression on nose with candy corn and apricot jam. Custard aromas persist as well like thick Greek style honey yogurt. There is a floral sweetness - honeysuckle, light ginger bread, and autumn apple spice. Only a faint hint of minerality like blackboard eraser-smack chalk dust. Medium weight on mouthfeel, custardy and smooth up to the midpalate. The finish lacks focus and is short as the the acidity battles the alcohol. This wine is one of the 17 bottles smuggled back from France.

30 Euros?

B